The best thing about Bruges being such a small city is that it doesn't take long to explore. Even after just a day and a half here I felt I'd seen most things I wanted to. Today just left a couple to tick off the list. Being a Saturday, it was market day in one of the main squares. I first visited the Fish Market, which back in the day was extremely popular. It's right on the canal and the boat pulled up and the fish went straight from boat to the market stall. These days, with the canals only used for tourist boats, it's a lot quieter. It still opens most mornings but there is less and less fresh fish and more and more tacky souviners and trinkets.
I barely stopped for a photo before heading to the larger market at 't Zand. At first it seemed to be a weird mix of clothes, linen and people selling items that belong on late-night TV advertisements such as non-stick frypans and magic glass cleaner. I eventually found the fruit, vegetables and flowers tucked down another street. Alon with chickens and rabbits. I love markets but it's such a shame when I'm not in a position to buy anything. I already had my lunch and dinner organised.
Back in 't Zand I found the cheese, deli and bread stalls I'd expected. One bread stall had a huge line of customers. And a tea van was packed with people standing around some tables drinking tea and coffee from tiny cups. I've overheard a lot of locals complain about the number of tourists, so it was nice to see them here, in what must be a big tourist attraction on the weekend.
Speaking of tourists, they were out in force today. The weather wasn't as good as yesterday. The canals were icy. But being a weekend, the visitors appeared. I visited the chocolate museum (not really worth a visit I'd say) and found myself shuffling along the exhibits in a little tourist conga line. I'm so very glad I'm not here in summer. The chocolate museum was interesting, but if I'd had any less time I would have happily skipped it. I bought a combined ticket when I went to the Fries Museum, so figured I may as well go. I did get some free samples. A woman gave a demonstration and just before she handed out the sample she asked if anyone had any questions. I did, and it held up the giving of the samples. I got a dirty look from one lady. Sheesh!
I visited a tea shop a friend had recommended. Good tea and good apple cake. Plus I got a table right near the fire. It was nice to be warm for a bit.
I spent the rest of the afternoon walking along the outskirts of the city, passed a few windmills that line the edge of the old town. I came back to Marcel's by 3pm. He was leaving for work at 4pm so I wanted to make it back before he left.
When it was dark I went for a walk and unsuccessfully searched for a waffle. These things are everywhere during the day but all the little places that serve them close and the bigger places don't want you taking up a table just for a waffle. I'll get one in Ghent tomorrow.
I really like the city at night. Although it was busier tonight (being a Saturday) then it was on Thursday, it's still so much quieter than during the day.
Showing posts with label Brugge. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Brugge. Show all posts
Saturday, February 9
Friday, February 8
Day 2 in Brugge
It's February in Europe, so I didn't have high expectations for the weather here. I bought gloves, a beanie, umbrella, waterproof jacket and waterproof shoes. But I've been very lucky so far - despite some poor forecasts for earlier in the week.
Today when I woke up the skies were blue.
I didn't waste much time.
I ran over to the supermarket to get some fresh bread for breakfast. It's something I love doing in Europe. It's not quite the same anywhere else.
I left a note for Marcel (who'd warned me he was likely to sleep into the afternoon as he was two night shifts coming up). Today I was going to be a tourist. Sometimes it's just got to be done. So I started with a walk up the Belfry (yep the one in In Bruges).
The view was awesome. Although just beyond the city there's a lot of industry, which looks strange but I guess it's got to be somewhere. It's 366 steps to the top. Some creative license was taken in the movie because there is wire across the balcony, which you'd expect at this height. So no gangster could throw himself off it.
I resumed my walking in the sun, stopping on a bench to eat my chocolates form Dumon (yesterday's - I didn't buy more!!). More walking. Around some street somewhere (I was just walking with no map, no idea) I saw a cafe called Books and Brunch. Two of my favourite things. I took it as a sign as went in for lunch. The care is lined with books (new and secondhand) which you can buy. A note in the menu said customers are free to read them in the store and don't even have to buy anything...just sit in one of the seating areas and read away. I had some broccoli soup (something to wash the sugar down) and a cup of tea.
I decided to do a cruise on the canal. It's only 8 euro here compared to 70 euro in Venice. The boat trip took 30 minutes and it was good fun. It's nice to look up at the buildings a bit. When walking I tend to keep my eyes at shop level.
I bought my tea cup on this trip (It didn't go to Berlin or London - my two most recent trips) so a Teacup Tale was overdue. I took some photos and walking around a bit more. Belgium is famous for its fries - apparently they were named French Fries because American soldiers mistook Belgium Army staff for French. So it seemed fitting to visit the fries museum here. The museum went through the history of potatoes and their introduction in Europe and Belgium, and then the development of fries. There was a lot of conflicting theories, but Belgium is happy to claim they originated here. They have a fry shop in the basement so I tried fries for the first time. Good, but not sure they are worth all the fuss. How good can fries really be?
In need of a cup of tea I found a tea shop and read my book for a while. When I ordered a scone I was told there would be a 15-20 minute wait because they bake them fresh. Totally OK with me!
Then, more walking and tea cup shops before walking back to Marcel's. He cooked dinner (meat balls in a celery sauce and mashed potato...I'm getting very spoilt by my hosts on this trip) and we spent the evening listening to music. He's a fan of some Australian artists so it was nice to listen to some songs I haven't heard for ages. I also watched the Belgium version of The Voice. Some poor decisions were made. What were the judges thinking???
Today when I woke up the skies were blue.
I didn't waste much time.
I ran over to the supermarket to get some fresh bread for breakfast. It's something I love doing in Europe. It's not quite the same anywhere else.
I left a note for Marcel (who'd warned me he was likely to sleep into the afternoon as he was two night shifts coming up). Today I was going to be a tourist. Sometimes it's just got to be done. So I started with a walk up the Belfry (yep the one in In Bruges).
The view was awesome. Although just beyond the city there's a lot of industry, which looks strange but I guess it's got to be somewhere. It's 366 steps to the top. Some creative license was taken in the movie because there is wire across the balcony, which you'd expect at this height. So no gangster could throw himself off it.
I resumed my walking in the sun, stopping on a bench to eat my chocolates form Dumon (yesterday's - I didn't buy more!!). More walking. Around some street somewhere (I was just walking with no map, no idea) I saw a cafe called Books and Brunch. Two of my favourite things. I took it as a sign as went in for lunch. The care is lined with books (new and secondhand) which you can buy. A note in the menu said customers are free to read them in the store and don't even have to buy anything...just sit in one of the seating areas and read away. I had some broccoli soup (something to wash the sugar down) and a cup of tea.
I decided to do a cruise on the canal. It's only 8 euro here compared to 70 euro in Venice. The boat trip took 30 minutes and it was good fun. It's nice to look up at the buildings a bit. When walking I tend to keep my eyes at shop level.
I bought my tea cup on this trip (It didn't go to Berlin or London - my two most recent trips) so a Teacup Tale was overdue. I took some photos and walking around a bit more. Belgium is famous for its fries - apparently they were named French Fries because American soldiers mistook Belgium Army staff for French. So it seemed fitting to visit the fries museum here. The museum went through the history of potatoes and their introduction in Europe and Belgium, and then the development of fries. There was a lot of conflicting theories, but Belgium is happy to claim they originated here. They have a fry shop in the basement so I tried fries for the first time. Good, but not sure they are worth all the fuss. How good can fries really be?
In need of a cup of tea I found a tea shop and read my book for a while. When I ordered a scone I was told there would be a 15-20 minute wait because they bake them fresh. Totally OK with me!
Then, more walking and tea cup shops before walking back to Marcel's. He cooked dinner (meat balls in a celery sauce and mashed potato...I'm getting very spoilt by my hosts on this trip) and we spent the evening listening to music. He's a fan of some Australian artists so it was nice to listen to some songs I haven't heard for ages. I also watched the Belgium version of The Voice. Some poor decisions were made. What were the judges thinking???
Day 1 in Brugge
Lucie's dad drove me to the train station today.
We were driving along the road and came to what I first thought were abandoned toll booths. Perhaps a new road was built and they no longer charge tolls for this.
Nope.
The Belgium border.
Just like that I was in another country.
It's an experience I've had a few times in the last 18 or so months, but it still amazes me. This just isn't possible in Australia. Drive for days on end and you're still in Australia or in the ocean.
The train from Lille to Brugge would have cost about 40euro, because it would have been the international TGV train. Catching local trains is much cheaper so I'd planned to go from Lille across the border to Kortrijk and then from Kortrijk to Brugge. It would have cost about 15 euro, but Lucie's dad (I realise now I never got her parent's names) offered to drive me to Kortrijkto save me changing trains. My train was then 7euro...a big difference from 40. It always pays to do your research.
My CouchSurfing host had given me directions to catch the bus from the train station in Brugge to his place, but the weather was fine and it didn't look that far so I walked instead. It took me about 40 minutes along the canal. Marcel lives a street or two outside the centre of the city, but it's not a big place so it's still only 10 minutes or so from the centre of the old town.
I spent an hour or so chatting to Marcel before venturing into the old town for a walk around. Brugge is nicknamed Venice of the North (although the people here prefer to call Venice the Brugge of the South). Both cities have canals and lots of twisty, narrow streets but that's where the similarities end as far as I can see.
Brugge, of course, is known for it's chocolate. There are more than 50 chocolate shops here. A few names have cropped up repeatedly in my research so I planned to visit them. I found The Chocolate Line, which a couchsurfer who couldn't host me had suggested I visit. With Valentines Day a week away there's a definite theme in the window displays. I chose some chocolates - you buy them in little boxes, so three for 3.90, or five for whatever, and eight and so on. I chose two and then asked the sales assistant to put in her favourite.
Barely 50 metres down the street I came across Dumon; this one had come up in a lot of guidebooks. I stopped in here for a hot chocolate and got two free chocolates with that. Not bad for 2.50euro. I chose another box of three and decided I better do some walking. I only ate one of the chocolates I bought - a melocake from The Chocolate Line. Marshmellow covered in chocolate with this surprise little biscuit base. Oh my god it was amazing. I knew there was crap chocolate, better chocolate and fancy chocolate but this was a whole other level. I could feel it in my body like a drug and I immediately wanted another. I walked in the opposite direction to the shop.
I spent the next few hours walking down any street that looked interesting. I rarely knew where I was, but when I thought I should start heading back I just looked for the Belfry and walked towards that.
I cooked dinner for Marcel and then we headed out to see the city at night - it's his favourite time to be in the city. There are tourists here all year round. Although the Markt Square was pretty bare, there were still plenty of camera-totting visitors around. Even in the rain. So Marcel prefers to head out after they've all called it a night.
I had my own tour guide as we walked along the canal. We stopped in at a bar where some of his friends work for a quick drink and then continued on walking. We covered A LOT of the city and Marcel pointed out a few things I'll go back and visit. It was 11pm when we walked passed a bar he frequents. We walked straight by but we were just out of view when his phone rang. A mate in the bar had spotted him so we went in for a drink. The bar was only steps from the Markt and I thought that would have made it a prime "tourist trap" but apparently it's really popular with locals. You never can tell.
After about three hours of walking, we called it a night.
We were driving along the road and came to what I first thought were abandoned toll booths. Perhaps a new road was built and they no longer charge tolls for this.
Nope.
The Belgium border.
Just like that I was in another country.
It's an experience I've had a few times in the last 18 or so months, but it still amazes me. This just isn't possible in Australia. Drive for days on end and you're still in Australia or in the ocean.
The train from Lille to Brugge would have cost about 40euro, because it would have been the international TGV train. Catching local trains is much cheaper so I'd planned to go from Lille across the border to Kortrijk and then from Kortrijk to Brugge. It would have cost about 15 euro, but Lucie's dad (I realise now I never got her parent's names) offered to drive me to Kortrijkto save me changing trains. My train was then 7euro...a big difference from 40. It always pays to do your research.
My CouchSurfing host had given me directions to catch the bus from the train station in Brugge to his place, but the weather was fine and it didn't look that far so I walked instead. It took me about 40 minutes along the canal. Marcel lives a street or two outside the centre of the city, but it's not a big place so it's still only 10 minutes or so from the centre of the old town.
I spent an hour or so chatting to Marcel before venturing into the old town for a walk around. Brugge is nicknamed Venice of the North (although the people here prefer to call Venice the Brugge of the South). Both cities have canals and lots of twisty, narrow streets but that's where the similarities end as far as I can see.
Brugge, of course, is known for it's chocolate. There are more than 50 chocolate shops here. A few names have cropped up repeatedly in my research so I planned to visit them. I found The Chocolate Line, which a couchsurfer who couldn't host me had suggested I visit. With Valentines Day a week away there's a definite theme in the window displays. I chose some chocolates - you buy them in little boxes, so three for 3.90, or five for whatever, and eight and so on. I chose two and then asked the sales assistant to put in her favourite.
Barely 50 metres down the street I came across Dumon; this one had come up in a lot of guidebooks. I stopped in here for a hot chocolate and got two free chocolates with that. Not bad for 2.50euro. I chose another box of three and decided I better do some walking. I only ate one of the chocolates I bought - a melocake from The Chocolate Line. Marshmellow covered in chocolate with this surprise little biscuit base. Oh my god it was amazing. I knew there was crap chocolate, better chocolate and fancy chocolate but this was a whole other level. I could feel it in my body like a drug and I immediately wanted another. I walked in the opposite direction to the shop.
I spent the next few hours walking down any street that looked interesting. I rarely knew where I was, but when I thought I should start heading back I just looked for the Belfry and walked towards that.
I cooked dinner for Marcel and then we headed out to see the city at night - it's his favourite time to be in the city. There are tourists here all year round. Although the Markt Square was pretty bare, there were still plenty of camera-totting visitors around. Even in the rain. So Marcel prefers to head out after they've all called it a night.
I had my own tour guide as we walked along the canal. We stopped in at a bar where some of his friends work for a quick drink and then continued on walking. We covered A LOT of the city and Marcel pointed out a few things I'll go back and visit. It was 11pm when we walked passed a bar he frequents. We walked straight by but we were just out of view when his phone rang. A mate in the bar had spotted him so we went in for a drink. The bar was only steps from the Markt and I thought that would have made it a prime "tourist trap" but apparently it's really popular with locals. You never can tell.
After about three hours of walking, we called it a night.
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)