Going to Gent

I nearly didn't come to Gent.
I'd ummed and ahhhed. Though about coming just for the day. Thought about not coming at all. Finally I made a decision. There was a reasonably priced bus leaving from Gent on Monday morning to Paris. Instead of getting up super early for the train from Bruges, I decided to go up on Sunday and spend the night.
Thanks to a post in the last-minute group I found a CouchSurfing host, the bus ticket was booked. I was going to Gent.

I arrived about 10.30am and stored my luggage at the train station. I'd had to remind myself that while the pictures I'd seen looked a lot like Brugge, this time I was in a proper city. Meaning the distance from where I was and where I wanted to get was more than walking distance. I was also without a map (there were none at the train station???) but I took a chance and jumped on a train heading (hopefully) into the centre.

I didn't know much about Gent, so I turned to a post by one of my favourite travel bloggers, Matt, from Landlopers. He was here recently and posted an article called 42 Things I Love About Gent. I picked out a few things that interested me and off I went.

My first stop was the Sunday flower market. Apparently this is a very local thing to visit, although probably not anymore since Matt's site gets thousands and thousands of hits. I strolled through the stalls and wished I could have bought some flowers. Then I had a hot chocolate and piece of cake (the cake was free!!) at a small espresso stand. This is what one does when one arrives at the flower market. Then I continued into town, walked around and found the tourist information. It was one of the best tourist information centres I've ever seen. There was a great selection of free maps and the people at the desk were asking the most basic of questions (always a good sign). I asked for directions to a great waffle place Matt had written about and headed that way, only to learn the waffles aren't served until 2pm.

I went in search of a chocolate place, but that was closed and found myself back at the flower market. This time a second trailer cafe was open - this one serving oysters and champagne. (Apparently this is what one does after they have finished buying their flowers). I was tempted to join in but at nearly 8 euro for half-dozen oysters, I gave it a miss.

I bought some "Gent noses" (proper Dutch name is neuzen) from a street stall. It's a cone-shaped confectionery which the seller described as the diamonds of gent. I was told, after I bought some, that my life was now saved. As I munched on a bread roll and some Griekse Brood (Greek bread) I stumbled across the Graffiti Street. There isn't much graffiti in the city - it all seems be in this one alley. It looked like it belonged in San Francisco or Berlin. Certainly not Gent.

I ate my neuzens by the canal and counted down until 2pm. With time to kill I headed to St Bravos - one of the many many churches in Gent. But this one is home to a "must see" - the Adoration of the Mystic Lamb. This was painted by two Belgium brothers in the early 15th century. My visitors guide compared it to the Mona Lisa. I figured at a cost of only 4 euro and with no lines, I could see what the fuss was all about. The entry fee includes an audio guide, which made the viewing much more interesting. And I was definitely impressed, but it's not really my thing. The Church itself is also beautiful, but I spent most of my time in there giving dirty looks to people ignoring the "No photography" sign. People were not being subtle at all. The lack of respect always frustrates me.

Then it was waffle time!!! Max's supposedly has the best waffles in Gent. Perhaps even in Belgium. The lady at the tourist information said she takes her children there once a year. I ordered a waffled with ice cream, fruit and chocolate. It was yummy but was it worth the 15 euro? I'll be writing a post on it later so you can find out then.

Absolutely stuffed I finally found the energy to walk some more, this time exploring the Patershol, one of the oldest areas of the city. The literal translation of the name Patershol is "Monk's Arse". There was a monastery at the end of the neighbourhood and the sewerage from that flowed into this area, which was were the town's poorest lived. The area now is much nicer and full of lots of restaurants and bars. I spent a while walking around and eventually found a canal to follow round to the port. I kept walking, crossed back over the city centre and started exploring along the other side, eventually coming back to the centre. Every time I find myself back in the main square, I'm always surprise. I'm never where I think I am.

A little tired from walking and still with a couple of hours to kill before meeting my host, I tried to visit the castle, but it was only an hour from closing and they'd stopped letting people in. So I went to the Design Museum, which was probably more up my alley anyway.

I came out and it was nearly dark. I had just enough time to catch the tram back to the station, pick up my bag and ride the tram back into the city. I spent half an hour photographing the city at night before meeting Otto, my CS host.

His home is a beautiful high-ceilinged studio just one street away from the castle. His house is older than Australia and used to be a brothel.

Paris tomorrow.

Day 3 in Brugge

The best thing about Bruges being such a small city is that it doesn't take long to explore. Even after just a day and a half here I felt I'd seen most things I wanted to. Today just left a couple to tick off the list. Being a Saturday, it was market day in one of the main squares. I first visited the Fish Market, which back in the day was extremely popular. It's right on the canal and the boat pulled up and the fish went straight from boat to the market stall. These days, with the canals only used for tourist boats, it's a lot quieter. It still opens most mornings but there is less and less fresh fish and more and more tacky souviners and trinkets.

I barely stopped for a photo before heading to the larger market at 't Zand. At first it seemed to be a weird mix of clothes, linen and people selling items that belong on late-night TV advertisements such as non-stick frypans and magic glass cleaner. I eventually found the fruit, vegetables and flowers tucked down another street. Alon with chickens and rabbits. I love markets but it's such a shame when I'm not in a position to buy anything. I already had my lunch and dinner organised.

Back in 't Zand I found the cheese, deli and bread stalls I'd expected. One bread stall had a huge line of customers. And a tea van was packed with people standing around some tables drinking tea and coffee from tiny cups. I've overheard a lot of locals complain about the number of tourists, so it was nice to see them here, in what must be a big tourist attraction on the weekend.

Speaking of tourists, they were out in force today. The weather wasn't as good as yesterday. The canals were icy. But being a weekend, the visitors appeared. I visited the chocolate museum (not really worth a visit I'd say) and found myself shuffling along the exhibits in a little tourist conga line. I'm so very glad I'm not here in summer. The chocolate museum was interesting, but if I'd had any less time I would have happily skipped it. I bought a combined ticket when I went to the Fries Museum, so figured I may as well go. I did get some free samples. A woman gave a demonstration and just before she handed out the sample she asked if anyone had any questions. I did, and it held up the giving of the samples. I got a dirty look from one lady. Sheesh!

I visited a tea shop a friend had recommended. Good tea and good apple cake. Plus I got a table right near the fire. It was nice to be warm for a bit.

I spent the rest of the afternoon walking along the outskirts of the city, passed a few windmills that line the edge of the old town. I came back to Marcel's by 3pm. He was leaving for work at 4pm so I wanted to make it back before he left.

When it was dark I went for a walk and unsuccessfully searched for a waffle. These things are everywhere during the day but all the little places that serve them close and the bigger places don't want you taking up a table just for a waffle. I'll get one in Ghent tomorrow.

I really like the city at night. Although it was busier tonight (being a Saturday) then it was on Thursday, it's still so much quieter than during the day.

Day 2 in Brugge

It's February in Europe, so I didn't have high expectations for the weather here. I bought gloves, a beanie, umbrella, waterproof jacket and waterproof shoes. But I've been very lucky so far - despite some poor forecasts for earlier in the week.
Today when I woke up the skies were blue.
I didn't waste much time.
I ran over to the supermarket to get some fresh bread for breakfast. It's something I love doing in Europe. It's not quite the same anywhere else.
I left a note for Marcel (who'd warned me he was likely to sleep into the afternoon as he was two night shifts coming up). Today I was going to be a tourist. Sometimes it's just got to be done. So I started with a walk up the Belfry (yep the one in In Bruges).
The view was awesome. Although just beyond the city there's a lot of industry, which looks strange but I guess it's got to be somewhere. It's 366 steps to the top. Some creative license was taken in the movie because there is wire across the balcony, which you'd expect at this height. So no gangster could throw himself off it.
I resumed my walking in the sun, stopping on a bench to eat my chocolates form Dumon (yesterday's - I didn't buy more!!). More walking. Around some street somewhere (I was just walking with no map, no idea) I saw a cafe called Books and Brunch. Two of my favourite things. I took it as a sign as went in for lunch. The care is lined with books (new and secondhand) which you can buy. A note in the menu said customers are free to read them in the store and don't even have to buy anything...just sit in one of the seating areas and read away. I had some broccoli soup (something to wash the sugar down) and a cup of tea.

I decided to do a cruise on the canal. It's only 8 euro here compared to 70 euro in Venice. The boat trip took 30 minutes and it was good fun. It's nice to look up at the buildings a bit. When walking I tend to keep my eyes at shop level.

I bought my tea cup on this trip (It didn't go to Berlin or London - my two most recent trips) so a Teacup Tale was overdue. I took some photos and walking around a bit more. Belgium is famous for its fries - apparently they were named French Fries because American soldiers mistook Belgium Army staff for French. So it seemed fitting to visit the fries museum here. The museum went through the history of potatoes and their introduction in Europe and Belgium, and then the development of fries. There was a lot of conflicting theories, but Belgium is happy to claim they originated here. They have a fry shop in the basement so I tried fries for the first time. Good, but not sure they are worth all the fuss. How good can fries really be?

In need of a cup of tea I found a tea shop and read my book for a while. When I ordered a scone I was told there would be a 15-20 minute wait because they bake them fresh. Totally OK with me!

Then, more walking and tea cup shops before walking back to Marcel's. He cooked dinner (meat balls in a celery sauce and mashed potato...I'm getting very spoilt by my hosts on this trip) and we spent the evening listening to music. He's a fan of some Australian artists so it was nice to listen to some songs I haven't heard for ages. I also watched the Belgium version of The Voice. Some poor decisions were made. What were the judges thinking???

Day 1 in Brugge

Lucie's dad drove me to the train station today.
We were driving along the road and came to what I first thought were abandoned toll booths. Perhaps a new road was built and they no longer charge tolls for this.
Nope.
The Belgium border.
Just like that I was in another country.
It's an experience I've had a few times in the last 18 or so months, but it still amazes me. This just isn't possible in Australia. Drive for days on end and you're still in Australia or in the ocean.
The train from Lille to Brugge would have cost about 40euro, because it would have been the international TGV train. Catching local trains is much cheaper so I'd planned to go from Lille across the border to Kortrijk and then from Kortrijk to Brugge. It would have cost about 15 euro, but Lucie's dad (I realise now I never got her parent's names) offered to drive me to Kortrijkto save me changing trains. My train was then 7euro...a big difference from 40. It always pays to do your research.

My CouchSurfing host had given me directions to catch the bus from the train station in Brugge to his place, but the weather was fine and it didn't look that far so I walked instead. It took me about 40 minutes along the canal. Marcel lives a street or two outside the centre of the city, but it's not a big place so it's still only 10 minutes or so from the centre of the old town.

I spent an hour or so chatting to Marcel before venturing into the old town for a walk around. Brugge is nicknamed Venice of the North (although the people here prefer to call Venice the Brugge of the South). Both cities have canals and lots of twisty, narrow streets but that's where the similarities end as far as I can see.

Brugge, of course, is known for it's chocolate. There are more than 50 chocolate shops here. A few names have cropped up repeatedly in my research so I planned to visit them. I found The Chocolate Line, which a couchsurfer who couldn't host me had suggested I visit. With Valentines Day a week away there's a definite theme in the window displays. I chose some chocolates - you buy them in little boxes, so three for 3.90, or five for whatever, and eight and so on. I chose two and then asked the sales assistant to put in her favourite.

Barely 50 metres down the street I came across Dumon; this one had come up in a lot of guidebooks. I stopped in here for a hot chocolate and got two free chocolates with that. Not bad for 2.50euro. I chose another box of three and decided I better do some walking. I only ate one of the chocolates I bought - a melocake from The Chocolate Line. Marshmellow covered in chocolate with this surprise little biscuit base. Oh my god it was amazing. I knew there was crap chocolate, better chocolate and fancy chocolate but this was a whole other level. I could feel it in my body like a drug and I immediately wanted another. I walked in the opposite direction to the shop.

I spent the next few hours walking down any street that looked interesting. I rarely knew where I was, but when I thought I should start heading back I just looked for the Belfry and walked towards that.

I cooked dinner for Marcel and then we headed out to see the city at night - it's his favourite time to be in the city. There are tourists here all year round. Although the Markt Square was pretty bare, there were still plenty of camera-totting visitors around. Even in the rain. So Marcel prefers to head out after they've all called it a night.

I had my own tour guide as we walked along the canal. We stopped in at a bar where some of his friends work for a quick drink and then continued on walking. We covered A LOT of the city and Marcel pointed out a few things I'll go back and visit. It was 11pm when we walked passed a bar he frequents. We walked straight by but we were just out of view when his phone rang. A mate in the bar had spotted him so we went in for a drink. The bar was only steps from the Markt and I thought that would have made it a prime "tourist trap" but apparently it's really popular with locals. You never can tell.

After about three hours of walking, we called it a night.

Discovering Arras

The day started with croissants from the bakery in Rouvroy. The suggestion that the French take their bread seriously isn't a stereotype or exaggeration. Lucie told me her family prefers to buy their bread from a boulangerie because the quality is important to them. Even if shopping at a supermarket they will make a separate trip to the boulangerie for bread.

After breakfast I helped Lucie feed two Icelandic horses she cares for. Her doctor took them in after they were horribly neglected and they now live in a giant yard behind his house and surgery. They are old (25 years old!!) so the yard is just enough for them. Lucie pops in once a day to feed them, give them some medicine and just cheer them up a bit.

By the time we got back it was time for lunch. I've mentioned it once and I'll say it again: Lucie's mum is an amazing cook. Lunch started with a cucumber and dill salad and then we had fish cooked with a vanilla and orange sauce. Amazing!! Lucie will be disappointed if she ever visits Australia and I make her a jam sandwich for lunch.

The north of France is a neglected part of the country. The south, with it's sun and beaches, is favoured and people usually only travel in this area to get from Paris to Belgium or perhaps Calais for the tunnel to England or Lille for the Eurostar. This afternoon we visited Arras, the closest "big" town to Rouvroy. It's a beautiful place. We climbed the belfry of the town hall and the view reminded me of a rows of dolls houses. We walked around the Place des Heros and the Grand 'Place. A huge concert used to be held in Palce des Heros (think acts like Coldplay, Greenday, Placebo etc) but the residents in the houses that line the square complained and it's now held at the Citadelle. This year the three-day event will feature Sting, Greenday, The Prodigy, Thirty Seconds to Mars.

We visited a new crepe restaurant to celebrate World Nutella Day (Feb 5), bought some macaroons from one of Lucie's favourite patisserie and a selection of amazing looking treats from her other favourite patisserie for dessert.

At home Lucie's mum cooked vegetable soup with polish sausage, and then we had bread, ham and cheese. This has to be the only country where bread and ham is such a quality meal!!

After dinner Lucie and I went for a drink with her friend Bertie. Bertie was travelling with Lucie when I hosted the two of them in Vancouver in September 2011. Bertie flew back to France from LA but Lucie returned to Vancouver so I saw her again. It really is such a small world. Who would have thought I'd see either of them again let alone catch up for a drink in their home town!!!

Northern France: The Coast

I've been in France barely 24 hours and so far devoured a croissant, a chocolate croissant, four homecooked crepes, a waffle, frites and a slice of gateau. I've forgotten what it feels like to be hungry.

So, yes, I'm back in France. A fourth French stamp was added to my passport just before boarding the Eurostar. This is quickly becoming one of my favourite trains. Not for the price or scenery, but the speed! It has to be one of the perks of living in London. Lille in 90 minutes, Paris in two hours.

I arrived in Lille Europe, crossed the square to Lille Flandres and caught a train to Billy-Montigny, about 45 minutes from Lille. I'm staying with my friend Lucie. We met when I hosted Lucie and her friend, Bertie, in Vancouver in September 2011. They travelled down to LA but Lucie came back to Canada and stayed with me again for a couple of nights. We kept in touch and when I went to Montreal last year I stayed with her for a few days. Now she's back in France so I decided to come visit.

I'm spending three nights with her and her parents. Her mum cooked crepes for dinner last night. Amazing. These were the sweet kind and the table was full of fillings: nutella, backed apples, lemon and sugar, homemade cherry jam, peanut butter, hazelnut spread, apple jelly. So many! I polished off four and washed them down with some cider. I thought perhaps the crepes were on the menu because of my visit, but it turns out it's quite common to have them for dinner. Lucie's parents speak a little English, but Lucie's translating a lot for us. Their other daughter spent some time in Australia so they know a lot about it.

Lucie and I spent the evening catching up. She went to Newfoundland last year a few weeks after I did (she decided to go after seeing my blog posts and photos) and I wanted to hear all about it. She spent a month there (I only had 3 days) and hitchhiked around.

In the morning, despite the forecast for miserable weather, we headed to the Coast, not far from Calais. Turns out the weatherman was wrong because we had blue skies and sunshine, although a LOT of wind.

Our first stop was the coastal hamlet of Ambleteuse. The town now is nothing more than holiday homes and a few restaurants. At this time of year it's a seaside ghost town. A few centuries ago it was a different story. Henry VIII of England built two forts here in 1546 as a bit of an "in your face" to the French kings. Henry II of France had them conquered three years later. At the end of the 17th century, Sebastien Vauban built Fort Mahon at the mouth of the river, which still stands. And it's what took us to Ambleteuse. According to my post-visit research, it's the only coastal fort preserved in France. Ambleteuse's colourful history doesn't end there. Napolean tried to create a harbour with the intention of invading England in 1805. The foundations are still there.

We drove along the Coast to the town of Wimereux. In summer this place would be crazy, but in early February we were lucky to find somewhere for lunch. We wanted frites, which we found at a van set up in a car park. It was still too windy to enjoy them ON the beach, so we just parked on the promenade and ate in the car.

Then it was off to Cap Gris Nez and Cap Blanc Nez. The cliffs of Cap Gris Nez are the closest point of France to England. We could see the cliffs of Dover in the distance (only 34km away). Apparently it's rare to get skies as clear as we had and water as blue, especially at this time of year, but we were lucky. We braved the wind and walked around the point and the maritime security centre that sits up at the lighthouse. Then we drove to Cap Blanc Nez. An obelisk sits at the top commemorating the Dover Patrol, which kept the Channel free from U-boats in World War 1. We could get down to the beach here and see the cliffs from the bottom. Amazing site. I still can't get over the weather.

We drove back to Rouvroy and to an afternoon snack of cake and waffles followed by dinner of salmon and pasta. Lucie's mum is an amazing cook!!

Pics will come when I write a proper post for Pegs on the Line. This is just a quick update so I don't forget anything!!